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Current research: Food - Race - Geography
To many, these words do not
have apparent connections and to even use the term ‘race’ is to invite
all manner of misunderstandings and disagreements. Race, here, refers
to the associations societies make about people’s physical features
that are appraised relative to a ‘normal’ set of features. In the case
of the US, looking and living white is the norm. Groups of people are
thus ‘racialized’ against that norm (less white, more white). Race
refers to the physical results of that norm—different groups marked by
these features living in different places, quite often separate from each other. It
refers to different life chances (what disease do you get, at what age
do you die, with how much comfort) that come from different education
levels, occupation and income. Race is most typically associated
with racial inequalities or, what scholars refer to as
institutionalized racism—racism that is not personal or intentional but
rather stuck in the many ways a society works. Using the term race
rather than ethnicity is an argument for recognizing these facts in
order to build a non-racist society. Many acknowledge the need to deal
with the subject of race and racism in this country, including
President Obama who said "...race is an issue that I believe this nation cannot afford to ignore right now" (March 18, 2008)
Few subjects are more compelling to people around the world.
We are, after all, what, where and how we eat. Throughout
history, state policy and social movements have sought to shape how
society produces, procures, cooks
and consumes food. My research has focused on one of these efforts that came to prominence
over the last 15 years--actions
taken to localize food production and consumption. Coalitions of
nonprofit
organizations have formed to promote the consumption of sustainably
produced local food. They have done so in order to bolster the
dwindling population of small to midsized farmers on the US landscape
against the concentration of agriculture under corporate ownership.
Using the term food security, these groups point to the lack of
availability of fresh fruits and vegetables in some places (nonwhite
city neighborhoods, rural areas) and the health consequences that could
result (e.g. obesity, Type II diabetes). Some advocates are
motivated by the desire to change farming. Many among the public
are especially concerned
about their own health. This effort, while comprised of alternative
thinking, educated people is not fringe, having entered the popular,
state and corporate domains through the now ubiquitous terms “fresh”,
“local”, “organic”, “family farmer” and especially “healthy”. Food
scares reinforce the point and reactions like taxing ‘junk food’ or
restricting food stamp purchases abound.
I wanted to know whether these
well-intentioned activists and public health workers acknowledged the
role of race in the local and global food system and what changes they
thought might be needed to produce a different system. From a food justice perspective, I wanted to know how healthy
local advocates answered questions like:
- Our society has a racial
division of labor; Latinos are more likely than white people to be
picking our vegetables, people of color are more likely to work in food
processing. Why? What do healthy local advocates want to do about that?
- In
impoverished and nonwhite places,
scholars have observed a
confluence of fast food restaurants and convenience stores that do not
sell fresh or nutritious food. They have also found a tendency for
healthy local advocates to position all small scale grocers with
convenience stores as
contributing to the problem of fast food access even though this may
not be true. The complexities sometimes get lost in activist praxis. The
fix for this problem is often assumed to be farmers' markets, changing
the offering of convenience stores or inviting in organic vendors (e.g.
Whole Foods). How
do healthy local advocates understand why these relationships exist
among race, less nutritious food and place and what does that mean for
their advocacy?
- Healthy local
advocates who focus on food security make links between lack of access
to 'good food' and obesity. Nationally, some groups of color are
disproportionately likely to be overweight and, more importantly, to become ill, to be undiagnosed and to go untreated for lack of health insurance. But as Julie Guthman points out, while this disproportionality must be acknowledged, it is problematic for fresh produce and exercise to be the solution
and for nonwhite people to become the symbol of overweight and
unhealthy. What else besides exercise and changing eating habits might
be considered? Who gets targeted with exercise programs based on what
assumptions about eating practices?
- How do differently
racialized groups understand food? Does everyone think buying local is a great
idea? Does everyone understand healthy, fresh, organic in the
same way? If not, how do healthy local advocates take these different perspectives into consideration?
- Do different racialized
groups have different associations with farming, gardening, particular
foods and practices around food? Why? How do those differences affect
the strategies and programming of healthy local advocates?
- Why are some
groups of color are disproportionately hungry and food insecure
compared to white people and what do healthy local advocates want to do
about it?
- Local/sustainable or organic is too costly for some and not everyone has a car, a refrigerator, a stove and time to cook. How might this affect the healthy local campaign and its programs? What
racialized life does it take to know what has vitamins or to be
comfortable in an upscale co-op much less able to buy things?
- Why is so much
healthy local programming about educating people to cook and eat 'good
food', getting people to grow their own, opening farmers' markets,
getting local food into schools, building vermicomposters and
encouraging exercise? These may be good and well intentioned programs
but they indicate that for healthy local advocates, the problem is
about individual behavior and knowledge. Why not lobby for a living wage, social programs or amnesty for the undocumented? These programs do not rise from a analysis of the food system as a system encompassing race, gender and class inequalities.
- Why is it so difficult for progressive, educated healthy local advocates to think about race and to be allied
with efforts launched by groups of color for fair wages, fair trade,
land rights, protection of the undocumented, environmental justice, access to culturally desired but non-locally grown food, separatist food sovereignty, buy Black and so on?
From my research and that of others it is apparent that these questions are typically not addressed.
The research involved a web survey, years of participant observation
and numerous interviews of people in alternative food networks. It was
supported by a National Science Foundation grant. I have
published and co-authored academic papers on this subject and a an
edited volume on the relationship between race and food is currently
under review for publication.
Race, food and public space: an ethnography of the Minneapolis Farmers' Market
Building on the previous study, this work situates farmers' markets in
the context of a burgeoning interest in local food and the promotion of
farmers' markets as vehicles for food change. Through markets,
alternative food organizations seek to support local farmers, regional
economies, sustainable farming and better access to vegetables.
As with the earlier study, I am again focusing on race on the
understanding that there is a racial dimension to farming and
marketing. This ethnography is interested in food practices operating
at the scale of engagements among vendors or with customers, the
methods of growing particular foods and ways of marketing.
This research was supported by a grant from the Center for Urban and
Regional Affairs at the University of Minnesota. Pdfs are available
under Publications.
PhD
research: Cities and Climate Protection
My doctoral research
(Geography, Clark University) explored the
translation of
global climate change into a
local issue in cities across the United States. The research explored
municipal commitments to greenhouse gas
emissions abatement as part of the Cities for Climate Protection campaign launched by ICLEI. The
findings
were based on 135 interviews I conducted in Minneapolis,
Tucson
and Seattle
as well as phone interviews with campaign contacts in 12 other cities. This municipal
level climate
politics
recast the city scale as the site of capacity and responsibility in the
face of
national inaction on global warming. I argued that the campaign drew on a neoliberal
understanding of
the urban citizen as consumer instead of cultivating the
'counterpublics'
required to provoke greater accountability for US emissions (pdf
of EPA
paper).
I also wrote about strategies
of the Cities
for Climate Protection campaign and Greenpeace Canada
that were deployed to make
climate change locally relevant. People sought to ‘protect the climate’ on behalf of polar
bears,
Saguaro cactus and
future generations. I
argued
that a good climate strategy would ask constituents to see relational
connections among scaled processes and across the spectrum of life (pdf
of EPD
paper). I
received a Doctoral Dissertation Improvement Grant from the National
Science Foundation to conduct this research as well as numerous
Teaching and Research Assistantships from the Department of Geography
and my supervisor, David Angel.
MA research: Gender and land tenure
My
MA degree (International Development, Community and Environment Program, Clark
University) explored gender relations, land tenure and development
ideologies in a rice scheme called the Office
du Niger in Ségou, Mali. I
was interested in how women transgressed,
re-articulated and evaded gendered
production-oriented development policy as well as how that policy stymied their attemps for
land and
sufficient time to grow rice, onions and chili. I
conducted interviews across the five zones of the Office
and held focus groups where women recorded a message to the
Agriculture Minister and international donors, namely ARPON the Dutch aid
agency,
concerning their desire to rent rice plots.
Later, the tapes
were aired in a
program on national radio in Bamako.
In addition, I plotted gendered daily work schedules
and
mapped land tenure arrangements. Women's customary use rights
to
land was a tenure pattern not observed in the Office.
Strong support for development ideologies favoring increased rice
production by
both
international donors and the state meant women-in-development
programming centered on hulling machines, not land access. Women
secretly
rented land nonetheless. Men's responsibilities to the household were
also the subject of much discussion. Women claimed men no longer
purchased household staples nor withheld enough rice from sale for
yearly household consumption, resulting in a dearth during the lean
months. Men argued that, with land, the gendered household
relationship would change dramatically and in ways they did not wish.
My research was made possible by a Fulbright scholarship and a Peace Corps fellowship from the IDCE program.